This is a project inspired by http://www.textileartist.org during the Lockdown Corona period February to May 2020 and also an extension of my original project studying folk art on wool . I used the tradition wool arriz shawl from the Pateh Doozi and hand dyed yarns . I made 6 samplers originally using stitches that are used in Pateh Doozi and then used App.Ollogy to create more intricate designs . I cannot put it down ! I usually need to feel the project has exhausted itself and comes to a natural end …. this is still on going!
Naturally Dyed Embroidery Yarns from Kerman , Iran Buttonhole Stitch CouchingFeather and Fly Stitch Stem Stitch (saghe doozi)App.Ology Digital Design of Couching Stitch Embroidery SampleGrid for the centre piece of design Beginning stitchingDetail of the original embroideryFinished Piece of Embroidery from App.Ology Design of Couching Sample App.Ology Digital Design of Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Feather Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Embroidery Sample App.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleDetail of the original embroideryExecution of the App.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery Sample
This project is for my City&Guilds students hoping to encourage them to use mixed media in their work . I have used can rings, foil tops, pins ,paperclips etc…. in the sampler . Line and Texture are values that need to be explored and students are encourged to use the stitches they have learned to create both of these design values . The prints were made by App.Ollogy after finishing the project .
The weaving was done on my little 8 Shaft Designer Loom a long time back . Now I have been revisiting the work and revived it with App.Ollogy . A Whole New Look! Illustration drawings and woven fabric photography put through App.Ollogy can create gorgeous prints and a more updated fashion statement.
How I enjoyed this sampler and experimenting with different colours ! This is based on the original Contemporary Pateh Doozi Sample using modern colourways with traditional techniques and stitches . I photograph the samples ,sometimes mid way through the stitching and create new designs using ‘App.Ology’.
Quite contrary to everyday opinion the precise combination of Pink and Orange makes for a stunning effect ! All I need is to print them and make a shirt dress … and wear it with a pink coat for an eye catching Autumn outfit !
Detail of Finished EmbroideryUsing Apps to redesign and seeing the final effect Detail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery in progress Detail of EmbroideryOriginal design Tessellation appPlaying with design App.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroidery App.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryDetail of EmbroideryDetail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery Detail of Embroidery in progressApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryCommercial use of Digital Designs from this projectCommercial use of Digital Designs from this project
The use of modern technology also allows us so much freedom and communication between designers and makers and producers. Using the apps and software available on line you can upload designs, create fabric, create items of clothing and furnishings , have them produced and also sell them on line ! Amazing !
9 Patch a la Kerman by Michelle Gilder & Maryam Tabatabaie
This is a project by Michelle Gilder and Maryam Tabatabaie combining Pateh Doozi and patchwork .
It is one of several quilts exploring traditional Iranian textiles and their designs and techniques in combination with patchwork and quilting.
Maryam did the Pateh stitching on woolen fabric with woolen yarns from Kerman Iran . I designed and stitched the log cabin piecing and the stitch in the ditch quilting . I also dyed all the silk fabrics for the log cabins .
This is an exciting new project combining the talents of Iranian Artisans . The baskets are woven in the Kavir Mesr desert near Kashan and in Mazandaran near the Caspian Sea . The embroidery is Baluchi by Lili Hassani , a young Iranian Embroidery designer who lives in Tehran . Leather handles, accessories and lining have been added.
Dzignpatch is committed to bring these young artisans together and designing items that can be sold in Europe .This will not only employ and train more artisans but is up keeping with our policies of empowerment and self sufficiency.
Using photos of my work and ‘App.Ology’ as I call it , the amount of designs I can create is endless!
What is App.Ology ? It it the name I gave to the process of using various apps in sequence to achieve different effects .
I had to choose a topic for a course I am doing and kept having to explain the process so I named it App.Ology so the assessors would know what I was talking about . I am trying to work out a formula to use but the possibilities are incredible! The combinations are infinite and the visual effects depends on the original source, which Apps they go through , which filters etc… Chance and coincidence play a big part in the designs and the introduction of new apps makes for even more exciting effects. I have been successful at harnessing the outcome to a certain extent and use ideas to re design from.I think I will be busy with App.Ology for some time….
I use App.Ology as part of the design process. I have a source, a drawing or piece of work , photograph it … and play with combinations of Apps . I can then derive various new designs from the result …and then repeat the process till I feel I have exhausted the creative process and patterns begin to repeat . It never fails to amaze me how far I can go with each source.
Here are the icons of the apps I am using . The majority of these apps are free and I have limited myself to the free versions so far . All the photos or prints that are named ‘Digital’ are a version of these apps.
This is the beginning of a new project using fabric and stitches from the previous Pateh Doozi project and giving a new colour scheme and complete make over . The Pateh Shawl or Ariz , as the fabric is called , dyes beautifully and this sampler is less about the stitches and more about the colour ! The silk threads are hand dyed too. Working with these fabrics and yarns by hand is extremely satisfying and sumptuous to handle .
Making choices The colour blocks Trimming offUsing freezer paper to attach Squaring offStitching Detail Detail
I slit the wool in order to create a hole Then felted it by putting it in the automatic washing machine at a high water temperature . Then I reverse appliqué wool on the back to see through the slit … a bit weird!
After felting Detail Detail Detail Digital Digital
This is a Contemporary Pateh Sampler . I have derived over a hundred new designs from it ! It uses the same fabrics and yarns with the traditional Pateh Stitches but has a modern twist .
Dyeing the woolen twill fabric which is traditionally used for Pateh Doozi ,I created a new colour scheme . I also dyed a variety of yarns and fibres to use in further projects which made the project even more fun ! I really wanted to see how well the fabric would dye and experiment with possibilities. The woolen Arriz fabric takes the dye extremely well.
Health & Safety in the Dye Lab
Safety in the dye lab is an absolute requirement for all dyeing activity whether it be in your own kitchen , in an educational establishment or in a factory . Personal safety as in exposure to chemical particles from dye and mordant substances can be dangerous for the skin and also inhaling therefore the lungs and throat. Wearing a protective face mask , preferably the N95 mask will prevent any inhalation and must be worn when handling all kinds of chemical substances. Protective gloves and protective glasses are also a requirement . I personally do not use protective glasses but I am only dyeing in small quantities but exposure to chemicals can cause irritation and burning to the skin and eyes .Protective gloves should be latex as thick washing up gloves can make you clumsy …and you do not want that when you are dealing with boiling dye baths and chemicals.
Ventilation is also a very important factor in the dye lab . Make sure he space you are working in is well ventilated by extractor fans and open windows .This will also prevent inhalation of irritable and poisonous fumes .
Chemicals , dyes and dangerous substances should be kept in a safe place away from children at all times. They also should be labeled properly.
Having a First Aid Box or Cabinet is imperative and it should include the minimal of : liquid antiseptic / pain killers/ sterile gauze / sterile cotton / burn cream / band aid
Fire extinguishers should be readily available and placed in obvious places. If you are working in educational establishments staff should be trained and well aware of how to use the fire extinguishers. If you are dyeing at home you can obtain small portable extinguishers to have at hand …. and not at the back of a kitchen cupboard somewhere!That goes for all safety equipment!
Protective aprons should also be used not only to provide protective from chemicals bit also prevent colour from getting on you clothes.
When dyeing at home have utensils that are separate from any used for cooking as dye leaves traces in pans and on spoons that can be dangerous and long term exposure may cause cancer.Use wooden or plastic spoons if possible , these do not conduct heat and are easily soaked in a bleach product to remove any stains . If you are using metal spoons always use a pot holder to stir your dye bath .The handles get extremely hot.
Dyeing can be very rewarding but you need to vigilant and keep safety in mind at all times.
Safety Measures for Covid 19
It is 2020 ! Corona virus safety is first and foremost on our minds and regulations should be in place in factories, educational establishments and your own homes.If you are teaching establish rules and regulations before students arrive so they come prepared with the correct PPE , disinfectant and their own equipment. If any student shows signs of infection postpone workshop until the proper tests have been proven negative.
Keep gatherings and classes to a minimum , of possible one on one teaching or teaching on line . Wear protective masks at all times .Be careful to use your own personal equipment , cutter, mat , sewing machine etc…. to avoid any possible contamination. Have regular periods to wash hands in accordance to Covid 19 Prevention Regulations.
Keep the rooms well ventilated and if possible windows open .
Disinfect all classroom worktops , door handles ,equipment and personal belongings after the workshop .
Dzignpatch 