Well , what with the disastrous effects of the Corona Virus in Iran and the dismal stories of execution….. I have had a bad month . Being British there are many things I am careful not to criticize living here in Iran this under the Islamic Republic ….. and there are a few things people are saying “no” to lately….. but execution is particularly hard to swallow …. fortunately there was an appeal granted for the three young men concerned but unfortunately other senseless executions have taken place since .
This is a small concertina book embroidered with 3 Pateh Stitches , saghe doozi, petk chahrgoosh and matn doozi. It is embroidered on the Pateh Ariz fabric from Kerman . The 8 cm x 5 cm tobacco tin is a vintage relic from the 1930’s .
I have visited over 60 old houses so far! I am just learning about the architecture and the terms they use …. the difference between Ghajar and Pahlavi house styles etc….
It has been fascinating to learn about north / south lay outs … three sided and four sided lay outs . The houses are set round a court yard which has a fountain in the centre . In the old days water would flow freely from the ‘Cheshmeh’ – the source , but today due to water shortages and distribution this system has been blocked off , saving water for the orchards in the north of Kashan . As a refuge from the Summer heat , the houses have wonderful underground caverns beneath the property in which to keep cool. The wind towers allow the air to flow down to the basement , pass over a flowing fountain which cools the air . It is incredible how the temperature drops down there !
Its 2019 and I decided it was time to make the move I have been planning for a while …… Kashan . I have made many trips there but actually moving there sounded crazy to so many people that I decided to make an effort to go every week for a while … get to know it a bit more and test out the Summer heat !
My family were hoping the whole idea would wear off… And to be truthful , I thought it might but every time I went I loved it more. A friend and fellow textile artist Simin Ghodztinat was just on the verge of moving into her renovated house so I decided to visit . When I walked in , I knew this was for me .
My kids have flown the nest and I am looking forward to my Third Act . The Corona Virus threw me a little but I am back on track and Iran is where I want to be .I feel like my relationship with this country is taking on another perspective and I can now really spend time exploring . Until now , even though as a family we have traveled and seen most of Iran , being Mum and Wife have been my priorities . Keeping the fine cultural balance and understanding the nuances can be all consuming and the complexity of the culture and traditions are hard to pin down ! But I have enjoyed and relished all the years …even the difficult ones ! …and there have been a few !
I have been privileged to have been a part of this culture and to have had a chance to glimpse the ‘ inside ‘… My heart and soul live here …. they always have , I think !
Simine’s House Baghe Fin Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse The Rooftops with wind towers
Kashan is a city in Esphahan Province in Central Iran . It has a population of approximately 400.000 . It is still very traditional and religious.
It is hot ! Summer temperatures can reach 48 Degrees Celsius but can drop well below -10 Degrees in the Wintertime. Half of the city is situated at the foot of the Karkas Mountain range and the other opens up to the Marangab Desert .
So …… Why would I choose Kashan?
There is something about the place that pulls you in and unlike other cities it has not become over populated as yet. Most probably because of the reasons mentioned ! It has kept its provincial atmosphere with the old houses and bazaars but has become so accustomed to travelers and tourists there is a certain tolerance for westerners even though they adhere to strict religious values . But after living in Iran for over 35 years now ,I think I am well versed and prepared to deal with the traditional ideology …. and the older I get …I love the desert heat even more .
… making fabric containers for my favourite things .
I have chosen to make containers for the three small pomegranates.These dried pomegranates were collected in a beautiful , old ,derelict, Jewish house in Kashan , Iran .
The Pomegranate is called the Heavenly Fruit in Iran میوه بهشت or the King of Fruits شاه میوه .It is used in cuisine , juices , healing purposes and for dyeing wool and silk …. and of course it is eaten in abundance especially on the Yule Tide Festival ‘Yalda’ which is the Winter Solstice … the longest night.
I dried pomegranate skins and ground them to a coarse powder. I made a dye bath by adding cider vinegar and the powder bringing it to the boil stirring the solution well. I added pieces of cotton muslin , wool fabric and silk thread . I let them simmer for over two hours . It never ceases to amaze me how natural ingredients never cause blotches or spots on the fabric and how the residue just washes away leaving in this case a gorgeous earthy pink on the wool and yellow/ browns on the cotton and silk .
Pomegranate skins and alum mordant are used to dye yarns in a variety of yellows for carpets , kilims and handicrafts. The colour achieved will depend on the quality of the fruit and the combination of mordants used . Vinegar acts as a mordant and a Ph modifier helping the fibers to absorb the dye . A weak vinegar solution also helps to stop some fibers like wool and silk from degrading . If no mordant is used the colours are more earthy browns than yellows and pinks .
This is a design project inspired by Christine Chester for the Lockdown Stitch Challenge http://www.textileartist.org . I really enjoyed it .I took the opportunity to use it as a continuation of my research on embroidery on wool and would like to explain the colour choices! Pateh Doozi , an Iranian needlework / folk art uses these 8 colours in certain combinations …. blue and red = purple etc…. I used them in the same way but with a modern twist.
Why the orange ? I always get asked at my workshops … well… you should see it without the orange ! The orange brings it to life!
The yarns and the fabric are sheep and goats wool . They are also traditionally used in Pateh Doozi .
I have taken photos of the work and used App.Ology to create new designs . Amazing stuff this App.Ology!
Original Drawings for project App.Ology designs from original drawings App.Ology designs from embroideryApp.Ology designs from embroidery App.Ology designs from embroideryApp.Ology designs from embroideryTesselation App.Ology designs from embroideryEmbroidery in progress from the App.Ology design
This is a project inspired by http://www.textileartist.org during the Lockdown Corona period February to May 2020 and also an extension of my original project studying folk art on wool . I used the tradition wool arriz shawl from the Pateh Doozi and hand dyed yarns . I made 6 samplers originally using stitches that are used in Pateh Doozi and then used App.Ollogy to create more intricate designs . I cannot put it down ! I usually need to feel the project has exhausted itself and comes to a natural end …. this is still on going!
Naturally Dyed Embroidery Yarns from Kerman , Iran Buttonhole Stitch CouchingFeather and Fly Stitch Stem Stitch (saghe doozi)App.Ology Digital Design of Couching Stitch Embroidery SampleGrid for the centre piece of design Beginning stitchingDetail of the original embroideryFinished Piece of Embroidery from App.Ology Design of Couching Sample App.Ology Digital Design of Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Feather Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Embroidery Sample App.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Stem Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleApp.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery SampleDetail of the original embroideryExecution of the App.Ology Digital Design of Buttonhole Stitch Embroidery Sample
This project is for my City&Guilds students hoping to encourage them to use mixed media in their work . I have used can rings, foil tops, pins ,paperclips etc…. in the sampler . Line and Texture are values that need to be explored and students are encourged to use the stitches they have learned to create both of these design values . The prints were made by App.Ollogy after finishing the project .
The weaving was done on my little 8 Shaft Designer Loom a long time back . Now I have been revisiting the work and revived it with App.Ollogy . A Whole New Look! Illustration drawings and woven fabric photography put through App.Ollogy can create gorgeous prints and a more updated fashion statement.
How I enjoyed this sampler and experimenting with different colours ! This is based on the original Contemporary Pateh Doozi Sample using modern colourways with traditional techniques and stitches . I photograph the samples ,sometimes mid way through the stitching and create new designs using ‘App.Ology’.
Quite contrary to everyday opinion the precise combination of Pink and Orange makes for a stunning effect ! All I need is to print them and make a shirt dress … and wear it with a pink coat for an eye catching Autumn outfit !
Detail of Finished EmbroideryUsing Apps to redesign and seeing the final effect Detail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery in progress Detail of EmbroideryOriginal design Tessellation appPlaying with design App.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroidery App.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryDetail of EmbroideryDetail of Embroidery in progressDetail of Embroidery Detail of Embroidery in progressApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryApp.Ollogy Digital Design using photo of original embroideryCommercial use of Digital Designs from this projectCommercial use of Digital Designs from this project
The use of modern technology also allows us so much freedom and communication between designers and makers and producers. Using the apps and software available on line you can upload designs, create fabric, create items of clothing and furnishings , have them produced and also sell them on line ! Amazing !
9 Patch a la Kerman by Michelle Gilder & Maryam Tabatabaie
This is a project by Michelle Gilder and Maryam Tabatabaie combining Pateh Doozi and patchwork .
It is one of several quilts exploring traditional Iranian textiles and their designs and techniques in combination with patchwork and quilting.
Maryam did the Pateh stitching on woolen fabric with woolen yarns from Kerman Iran . I designed and stitched the log cabin piecing and the stitch in the ditch quilting . I also dyed all the silk fabrics for the log cabins .
Dzignpatch 